Tuesday 3 February 2015

Coupe-Decale Liege: Reflections on my first couch-surfing experience.

Reflections on a couch-surfing experience.

Upon first meeting my Parisian friend at Montmartre, his interest in my project and general candidness immediately struck me. While I had hoped that we would initially meet in a bar or coffee shop to break the ice, he invited me to his apartment. It was a fabulous place located at the top of the Montmartre steps overlooking the entire city. From his window,  Paris shone bathed in a rare winter afternoon sun. Sam sat me at a table buried in books on subjects ranging from the origins of Hip Life in Ghana to political modes of expressions in African popular culture. At this point, my conviction that Sam and I would get along was confirmed. Hours flew by as we discussed our perceptions of the Coupe Decale movement and exchanged views on the coded forms of expressions embedded in the music. Sam, like many scholars who had gotten too close to this movement, had a very ambivalent view. Torn between his general love for African music and the dubious, rather criminal origins of Coupe Decale – I had the impression that his research had left him with a rather bitter taste in his mouth. Nonetheless, he still proved to be an excellent resource for general fieldwork advice, contacts and a myriad of lessons learned.

During the closing phases of our discussion, we realized that we were both headed to Amsterdam soon. Moreover it happened that Sam was also interested in watching a show called “Coupe Decale” that was soon going to stop in Liege, Belgium. Sam had actually forged a close relationship with James Carles (the show’s director and famous dancer/choreographer in Toulouse), who had given Sam some guidance during his own research. Quickly, it was decided that we’d go to Belgium together to watch the show. Since my original base in Belgium was at my cousin’s who lived in Antwerp, hundreds of kilometers away from Liege, catching a midnight train back to Antwerp after the show did not seem like a feasible option. After some rather rocky logistical issues, Sam arranged for us to stay with a Couchsurfing host who had a place in Liege.

I arrived in Liege a couple of hours before Sam as I had scheduled an interview with the show’s director. After some frustrating moments spent getting lost and hopping from bus to bus, I finally found James’ hotel. A few moments after I was announced, James came down and led me to the hotel bar. The interview went fast and was fairly unfocused. I kept fumbling my papers and struggled to keep my questions open-ended. Nonetheless James, perhaps sensing my lack of experience, was very patient and provided me with lengthy and very detailed responses – sometimes even answering questions that I had not explicitly formulated.  

Our meeting was cut short when my friend Sam called to announce that he had just arrived in Liege and that we were invited for an 8 pm dinner at our Couchsurfing host’s. I left James’ hotel for the address Sam provided me and found myself in an older neighbourhood of Liege. During our initial communication, Sam had warned me that we would be staying in a studio apartment where our host had been generous enough to offer us a mattress on the floor. I was however surprised to find that we were actually being lodged in a 3 floor townhouse where we actually had a separate (but shared) room.

Dinner with our host went well. The conversation revolved mostly around our shared experiences of various cultures and our individual trajectories. She was fascinated with our story and curious to find out how Sam and I went from complete strangers to travel mates in such a short time.  We did our best to tell her about our common interest in Coupe Decale, our relationship with James Carles and our interest in the following day’s show. She kept an open mind and a lot of patience as Sam and I went back and forth arguing as to what we thought were the true ideologies behind the movement. Before bidding her goodnight, we invited her to see the show with us the following day so she could see for herself what the fuss was all about. Sam and I finished the night in a Congolese bar bordering the Meuse, sharing research findings and opinions while sipping on cheap Belgian beer.

Until this experience, I had always considered Couchsurfing  a “dangerous practice”. It was hard for me to conceive that one could open his/her doors to complete strangers exposing themselves to all sorts of potential catastrophes. However, this experience proved to me that this perception could not be further from the truth. People like Sam and our host, made the experience thoroughly enjoyable. I learned about another culture, exchanged ideas and shared a genuine experience with other fellow human beings. Life should not be lived fearing interactions with our neighbours, it should be lived to embrace differences and accept others for what they are. I am, of course, not arguing for recklessness or imprudence since I am well aware that not everyone out there has the noblest of intentions. However, if we decide to somewhat lower our guard we might discover how sublime other individuals can be, and remind ourselves of our own ability for true and disinterested kindness.
















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